The day had finally come for our 2 week expedition to the Holy Land, Egypt and Jordan. For years Scott and I had dreamed of this trip but distance and costs were inhibiting from the US. So we are so grateful of this opportunity while living overseas to explore biblical sites, holy grounds and fascinating cultures and people of all religions and nations.
It’s by the far the most difficult trip to summarize in words and in such short words! But we’ll do our best summarizing all we saw and experienced in the beauty of the Middle East.
We began our journey with the Candelaria family (Joan, Robert, Chito, Johnny, Caroline and Maxima) leaving The Hague at 11pm and arriving at Cologne, Germany airport at 3:00am for our 7am flight. Ouch. But we quickly forgot about 'being tired' after arriving in Tel Aviv! We picked up 2 rental cars and headed to the hills around the Sea of Galilee.
We cheered in the cars leaving the airport and said a few times “hey guys, we’re in Israel! how cool is this!” We spent nearly 6 months preparing for this trip by studying the sites, cultures, Old Testament and even a bit of Hebrew. Shalom. Boker tov. Kadosh. Yahad to name a few words. It was an amazing learning experience that really came to life actually being there.
The atmosphere throughout the Middle East is continually penetrated by sounds from the minarets which demand submission to Allah while at the same time cursing the Jews and Israel. We experienced the tension amongst people and religions but more so of peace that is and will be the greatest ultimate take away from the trip. Peace. Shalom.
From here I will outline our trip by order of site-seeing and then will highlight our personal experiences:
Golan Heights
Tiberias: Sea of Galilee region
-Visited the 2000 year old boat that was discovered in 1986 (the Jesus Boat)
-Mount of Beatitudes where Jesus gave Sermon on the Mount (Matthew 5) beautiful church and gardens sitting on the hilltop overlooking the sea of galilee region. Although it was very foggy and rainy, still breathtakingly beautiful and surreal. This region hadn’t had this much rain in FIVE years so they were thankful to have it!
- Drove through countryside that differs so much in terrain from tropical palm trees, olive trees, vineyards, rivers beaches to mountains. I see why Jesus and his disciples settled here.
- Capernaum – where Jesus lived as an adult and Peter’s house also still remains here. The town has been left untouched except for the normal excavations.
- We continued a road trip through Golan Heights and drove up towards Mt. Hermon (highest elevation in Israel and closest to Syrian border) but roads were closed for security reasons. Still a beautiful drive through mountains, villages (Palestinean and Israeli towns) We eventually made way to Nimrod’s Castle, medieval fortress built 1229.
- Nazareth – town where the angel appeared to virgin Mary and where Jesus lived during his childhood. Now is the largest Arab city in Israel.
- Rosh Hanikra - Located on the Mediterranean coast near the Rosh HaNikra grottoes and the border with Lebanon. We walked through the old train station and caves.
- Caesarea – known for aquaducts built by Romans and the city underwent vast changes under Herod the Great, who renamed it Caesarea in honor of the Roman emperor, Julius Caesar. The ampitheatre isn’t nearly as impressive as the Colosseum in Rome but it’s quite large sitting along the mediterranean coastline. Significant spot was standing at the point where Paul was sent as a prisoner to Rome in Acts 27. Wow.
Jerusalem:
Arriving in Jerusalem was amazingly beautiful from the surrounding hillside cities to the inner walls of Old City. Jerusalem is situated on the navel of the earth, it is the city of the past, present and even more so the city of the eternal future…
We experienced an evening walk around the Western Wall to Mount of Olives. Amazing to reflect all that has taken place here and what’s still to come. God is at work amongst on all nations and bringing peace to the most religious city in the world, the epicenter, the belly button of the world, the center of all. Being surrounded by Muslims, Jews and Christians in such a tiny space, was eye opening to see everyone in one city, one center surrounding their holiest place of worship and of historical events. It was so powerful to see the holy sites, beautiful people, cities and walk on holy grounds there. I was especially moved looking up at Mount of Olives and Garden of Gethsemane knowing the time Jesus spent there and what’s still yet to come. I experienced the heaviness and tensions in the old city but also sensed much peace and love for all that are still searching for the messiah, truth, peace and reconciliation. There is peace being made among all and someday "every knee will bow and tongue will confess Jesus is Lord." Someday the peace will be made but it’s our desires to love one aother as we are loved despite differences, backgrounds and cultures from alpha to omega.
Scott and I were awe struck when we were hurrying to the wailing wall to meet the Candelaria’s and we noticed a religious Jew hugging his good buddy who was a religious Muslim (both in traditional attire) and you can see the true bond and deep sincerity. And we happened to be on the corner of the Christian corner. I’ll never forget the time in Jerusalem, especially the people we met and how God opened our eyes and hearts more to the Old Testament and learning from history and people in such a fresh, new powerful way.
- Prayer Walk – we spent the first morning walking the inner city walls praying for the peace of Jerusalem with www.neverbesilent.org who proclaims God’s truth and peace for Israel. Isaiah 62, Jeremiah 31, Isaiah 40, John 6:35
- Walked around Temple Mount, Dome of the Rock
- Holy Sepulchre where Jesus was laid and nailed on the cross and possibly buried (and risen) there.
- Via Dolorosa walk (8 stations) where Jesus carried the cross for all our sins up to Golgotha where he was crucified overlooking the Old City.
- Garden Tomb – one of the sites where Jesus was buried in the cave and resurrected
- Western Wall tunnel where we could see the inner wall under the Muslim quarter. We were amazed of the levels of building and how high the Old City is now compared to the street level in biblical times. The Jews are still getting permission to dig in a little further, slowly but surely they are recovering more and more facts and holy sites. Amazing.
- King David Hotel with an amazing terrace view and lovely iced coffee
- Shabbat Meal at Rabbi Reb Cheyim’s house. This is a friend of Johnny’s who invited us over to experience a Sabbath meal with his friends and family.
Dead Sea Region:
- Qumran – where the Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered in 1949
- Masada – fortress on top of an isolated rock plateau on the eastern edge of the Judean Desert overlooking the Dead Sea. After the First Jewish-Roman War a siege of the fortress by troops of the Roman Empire led to the mass suicide of 900 Jews who preferred death to surrender. They still use Masada for Israeli military drills.
- Ein Gedi – A tropical oasis in Israel known for its caves, springs, and its rich diversity of flowers. Ein Gedi is mentioned several times in biblical writings, for example, in the Song of Songs; "My beloved is unto me as a cluster of henna flowers in the vineyards of Ein Gedi" (1:14). According to Jewish tradition, David hid from Saul in the caves here; "And David went up from thence, and dwelt in the strongholds of Ein Gedi" (1 Samuel 24:1).
- Dead Sea – lowest place on earth! We swam (FLOATED) in the Dead Sea and what an ALIVE experience it was. So fun!
We drove through the salty, desert region to finally get to the southern tip of Israel in Eilat! Scott really enjoyed the open roads with NO speed limit only with occasional border checks! We enjoyed a glass of wine along the beach the first evening we arrived. It’s a nice tropical beach surrounded by Judean deserts, Mt Sinai, Jordan, Egypt and Saudi Arabia! Oh and on the Red Sea, that Moses parted. Ahhhhmazing.
We geared up and rested for the next part of our expedition…..
Cairo, Egypt
- We left on a midnight bus tour to travel 8 hours through Mt Sinai. First we had to walk across the borders at midnight surrounded by Israeli and Egyptian militarymen with machine guns and spotlights. We finally got to our bus to then began the next 8 hour, scary adventure with crazy Egyptian drivers!Just close your eyes and imagine.... you're in an 8 passenger bus, pitch dark roads, windy curves going 65-80mph from dessert sands to windy curves around massive boulders from rock falls winding around the cliff edges. OK, open your eyes and imagine you were supposed to be sleeping on this bustrip so you can start the day in Cairo at 7am! Well, it's STILL pitch dark except from the headlights ahead. It's now 6am, dark, and we're awake at the Suez Canal and still alive. Our van pulls up at a shady rest stop and tour guide says, "we're at our breakfast point to eat an Egyptian breakfast, foofoo" (mushy black beans) And Robert tells Scott at the table "put your US passport away." nice. safe. car sick. dark. and hungry.
- Arrived to Cairo safe but not very sound.
- Visited Egyptian museum, boat tour on Nile River with belly dancing, Papyrus art bazaar and of course the Pyramids and the Sphinx! Ahhhmazing!
- Then back through Mt. Sinai. Repeat the crazy ride (bullet 1) and then back across the Egyptian-Israeli borders. (sigh)
- We travelled with a total 7 tour guides, secruity and custom officers from border to border.
- The next day was sun sun sun and REST! Scott snorkeled in the Red Sea and Jess enjoyed the beach, a book and a delicious fruit smoothie and more sun. It felt fantastic!!!
Petra, Jordan
- A quiet day was needed before the next venture to Jordan. Another early morning and another day crossing borders! We were pleased with the courteous and pleasant Jordanians and beautiful bus ride through more desert lands (by daylight) to reach the magnificent Petra.
- Petra meaning rock; is a historic and archaeological city in Jordan that was established sometime around the 6th century BC as the capital city of the Nabataeans, it is a symbol of Jordan as well. The famous state treasury red rock formation is featured in Indiana Jones Last Crusade and many other films. It’s now one of the wonders of the world. Beautiful rock canyons, trails, and people.
Being in Jordan again reminded me how God is at work everywhere in the world even in the darkest little villages in Egypt and Jordan where there’s no running water or playgrounds for the kids. He’s in the heart and light in the biggest brown eyes of the little boy in Jordan who asked us for 1euro for post cards that will forever leave a mark in my heart. So, God’s also in Virginia in the wealthiest of neighborhoods and churches but sometimes stepping out in a way to see His magnificent work and love opens our eyes for seeing lost people, cities, or tiny villages through God’s eyes. It’s a beautiful thing to see brokenness through God’s eyes. Sometimes it’s harder to see brokenness because we are SO abundantly blessed and wealthy compared to other places in the world. But it shows us contentment from deep inside our hearts not based on materials, circumstances or in plenty or in want and that we can do anything in Christ who gives us strength. Phil 4
I was also reminded in Jordan that poverty can be so beautiful and I thanked God for allowing me to see the beauty of His people through his eyes. The country brought the most amazing brilliant colors together with countryside, camels and fabrics with dry desert lands and poor but yet 'content' smiley people. When the little boy touched my heart and left tears in my eyes I knew I will never forget his smile and the bright sparkle in his eye and no matter where we are and how comfortable we are, I’ll remember to pray for him and his family because most likely they will still be there in Petra using their kids for tourism as a form of income. And I know God will use this impact on my heart to serve other people from different nations, return to Jordan or just keep us humble and hearts tickled for that little guy.
Eilat:
- The last and final day in Eilat was more needed rest, sun and snorkeling. The Red Sea has the best coral and bright lil' fish in the world. Scott swares I missed all the best fish the 1st day but I was very impressed by all sparkly fish and untouched coral.
Tel Aviv & Jaffa:
- Winding down the trip on the lively beaches along the Mediterranean Sea
- Walked to the town of Jaffa offering a spectacular view of the coastline
- Jaffa is known as the place the prophet Jonah embarked for Tarshish (Book of Jonah 1:3) and as port-of-entry for the cedars of Lebanon for the Second Temple of Jerusalem (Book of Ezra 3:7). Jaffa is mentioned in the Book of Joshua as the territorial border. Also the city of Simon’s house.
- We ended our expedition in the lively city of Tel Aviv before catching the outbound flight back to cold and snowy Cologne, Germany.
I learned on this past trip being in the Middle East, I wasn’t always comfortable seeing many differences of life and travelling along the west bank but I felt God’s presence and peace in bigger ways than ever before. I knew that where I was and what I was experiencing and seeing before my eyes was bigger than feeling comfy on my sofa in The Hague. It was life changing and opened my eyes and heart in new ways. He reveals truth by tugging at our heart and prompts from the spirit that are ways to see how He is working in and around us.
I didn’t need to go to Israel to believe, God is alive and at work everywhere. But we gained a much stronger understanding of the Old Testament and different religious groups that have destroyed temple mount, what’s happened in Jerusalem, why it’s happened and what’s yet to come. Reading our Bible now brings a new dimension of ‘reality’ to the sites and holy grounds we walked.
Our expedition reached:
Oceans: Mediterranean, Sea of Galilee, Dead Sea, Red Sea, Nile River
Borders: Israel, Syria, Lebanon, Egypt, Jordan
Borders to borders, seas to seas, we experienced so much that is and will be the ultimate trip of our life. Peace. Shalom.
“Ki gavar aleunu chasdo
ve-emet Adonai l’olam” Praise the Lord, all nations, for his kindness and truth is so great. His mercy endures forever.
"Kadosh Kadosh Kadosh, Adoni Eloheim T'z'vaot, Asher Hayah, Vehoveh, veyano" Holy Holy Holy. Is the Lord God Almighty. Who was, and is, and is to come.
Here's a really great blog that captures the sites with nice pics: http://www.kenbaughblog.com/
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